Terry_Cowan (16K)
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oldgoaly

Posts: 217
Status: Offline

Gang,
Just getting started on the 50lb Mayer bros hammer got it home saturday, cleaned it with
purple cleaner today. Things noted for repair are treadle pivot is frozen and lower tool
post is chipped. have not cleaned and crack checked (magnaflux) arms yet things look pretty
good as for as wear so far! I have the little giant book to use as a guide but any help is
appreciated!
As for the power? hmmm a small briggs motor might be a good option?
Take care!
attached are some pics of the hammer



Attached Files:

  • mvc-006s.jpg (65 kb)
  • mvc-009s.jpg (66 kb)
  • mvc-008s.jpg (77 kb)

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    oldgoaly

    Posts: 217
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    Looking for the serial number??? any ideas where it is?
    combed thru the L/G book but either missed it or it is
    not discussed ???
    Thanks!
    tt

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    oldgoaly

    Posts: 217
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    Gang,
    got some thing disassembled on the hammer the clutch works, the hammer slides looks excellent!
    the foot treadle bold not so good, got i t loosened up but could not stop there will have
    to remove completely(hard!) put a new one in. the hammer head(top tool post) THE UGLY!!!
    upper dies is welded in, not good. looks like allot of grinding, may have to true up in the bridgeport?? lower tool post has chipped out spot but should still hold??? any thoughts?
    please click on the attachments for pics

    Any comments? suggestions? Prayers?
    Take care!
    tt



    Attached Files:

  • mblwrtp2.jpg (57 kb)
  • mblwrtp1.jpg (47 kb)
  • mbped1.jpg (49 kb)
  • mbuprtp1.jpg (46 kb)

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    oldgoaly

    Posts: 217
    Status: Offline

    Gang,
    here is a close up off the upper die / hammer head, lucky the weld is bad,
    but has fused with the head and the die to make it hard to remove!
    Any ideas on removing the weld?



    Attached Files:

  • Mvc-007s.jpg (39 kb)

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    chardy

    Posts: 5
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    Being as I do Art metal vs. blacksmithing,think about an oblique method. make up rubber sheet patterns and fill open areas you don't want hit with latex tool handle coating.Then sandblast with the coarsest material silicon oxide-silica sand; what ever you can get a hold of. Grinding; if you can get to the areas is status quo,but you asked for some ways,that could solve different problems.Good Luck! Dick Stack-Hillsdale Art Metal

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    oldgoaly

    Posts: 217
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    Success! i managed to get the pin out and the die came out with out a problem!
    Thanks Dick for the sugestions! Here are a few more pics of the die block/hammer head,
    i will be cleaning it up on the bridgeport. The thing that has me stump is the center
    pin? it is a sloppy fit, but if it was tight how would you get the die to fit???
    Take care!
    tt



    Attached Files:

  • Mvc-005s.jpg (29 kb)
  • Mvc-004s.jpg (51 kb)
  • Mvc-003s.jpg (51 kb)

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    knots43

    Posts: 2
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    Hi Terry,

    I got my first power hammer in 1982 or there abouts. It was a Mouloch 25 Pounder. Had a lot more wear than yours seems to have. fixing that thing up was an epic trip. But it was worth the effort.

    From looking at your post and the pictures I gather that the question is how are the hammer dies held in place. Obviously welding them in is not the correct answer. On my old hammer, and I assume most others, the tool holder channel ways in the base pedestal and ram are dovetailed. However the dovetail cuts are ever so slightly non-parallel. The hammer inserts are also dove tailed but cut parallel. This allows a steel wedge to be driven from one side to hold the insert into the channel ways. It appears that your channel ways are slightly dovetailed, so I assume yours work the same way. The pin was probably only intended to keep the die from slipping out of alinement when the wedge is driven home. At least in my machine I have never felt the need to use the pin

    Maybe I have misunderstood the nature of your problem and question. If so I am always open to learning new tricks and correcting the error of my ways.

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