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Created By: John Kelly


AB How to use, make, or buy a shrinking disc. (33)
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0-1 This a very easy metal-finishing method. Start of test panel...lumps from stretching at top of picture simulate body panel damage.
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Click thumbnails for larger pictures.
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0-2 Dent put in panel.
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0-3 Bumping dent up with ballpeen hammer, or soft edged rounded dolly...start at outer edges.
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0-4 work towards the middle with ballpeen.
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0-5 Start smoothing the lumps formed by the ballpeen using a hammer and dolly.
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Try spending 5 minutes hammering and dollying in the same general area to get a feel for it. You can always shrink it back down.
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0-6 Run the shrinking disc over the area to highlight the surface irregularities.
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0-7 Picking up low areas with the ballpeen hammer... leaves small lumps where there were low spots.
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0-8Smoothed with a hammer and dolly again, and treated with the shrinking disc again.
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0-9 Repeat raising low spots, and smoothing...shrinking disc.
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11 Start smoothing stretched lumps with a slapper (or hammer) and dolly
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12After slapper and dolly work, lumps are more smooth.
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13Lumps highlighted and shrunk a little bit by shrinking disc.
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14 A few more rounds of smoothing and shrinking with hammer and dolly and shrinking disc.
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I have posted snippets of this work on youtube.com. Search for gullwinginn
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15Blending the dent area with the stretched area by repeated raising of low spots, smoothing, and shrinking.
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This demonstration is taken from my DVD: Custom Metal Bodywork.
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16This took about 1/2 hour and is almost perfect..another ten minutes of the same would have it perfect. Super easy metal finishing.
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You could easily make a dent and fix it dozens of times in the same spot without hurting the metal with this method.
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demo1 Test panel quickly shaped with a mallet and shot bag, covered with ink, lightly filed to highlight uneven surface.
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Please wear a full face shield and hearing protection when using the disc.
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demo2 Close up of the surface. This took about 1/2 hour. For this demonstration, I used my lower power 3400 rpm 6.9 amp sander/polisher. My 6000 rpm 15 amp sander/grinder is much faster. Finished off with scotch brite pad.
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All the steps required between these two pictures are posted above.
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IMG No special backup pad required. A standard 7" sanding disc back up pad and spindle nut can be purchased at home depot and the like. They usually come with your grinder or sander.
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IMG_0540 Don't remove disc from surface of metal until it stops spinning! Videos from others show this dangerous practice! A great way to get hurt. There is no hurry!
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Use a sander/polisher, or grinder with 1750 rpm to 6000 rpm. Anything more may not be safe. Lower rpm takes longer to shrink.
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J.
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I no longer make shrinking discs. Please contact Wray Schelin at wesparts@charter.net for a high quality shrinking disc made by the professional metalshaper who first suggested using a flat disc. There are numerous rip-off copycats out there.
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K3This reverse curve is an example of shaping metal with a crowned shrinking disc. The low crown disc allows you to make reverses or repair stretched areas inside valleys.
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The low crowned disc will work on almost any panel. For working in deep valleys, modify a stainless soup pan lid by making a depression for the spindle nut as shown below. A shrinking disc will teach you to use torch shrinking for reverses as well.
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K4rebar1 Testing: The picture is of a piece of 1/2" re-bar that I ground all of the ribs off of using the shrinking and shaping disc. As you can see I also sharpened the tip with the disc. The disc did not fail.
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m01 Or, you can make your own shrinking disc using 18 gage stainless (best) or cold rolled steel.
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Start with an 8" to 10" blank with a 7/8" hole in the center. I do have some stainless blanks left over from before I stopped production. Contact me at: ghiafab@coastaccess.com if you are interested.
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m02 Soften the edge with heat if you use stainless. You do not need to see a color change in the metal.
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m03 Use a shrinker to make compound shape in the disc.
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m04My shrinker has stippled jaws. The stock jaws will leave marks that need a little more clean up to prevent cracks from forming.
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Click thumbnails for larger pictures.
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m05
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m06 Smoothing the wrinkles caused by the shrinker. A hammer and dolly will work...or hammer upside down over a flat surface.
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Spend the time to make the surface smooth, or you will get a false read of the contours.
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m07 Checking the contours. If there is a gap in the middle between the gage and disc, you need to shrink more there.
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m08 If there is a gap at the edge of the disc, you need to stretch the edge a little and check the contours again.
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The shiny spots show where I did some on dolly stretching.
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m09 One way to form the center depression: set the disc on a 2-1/2" stub of pipe, and hammer the spindle nut down. This takes more than a few hits.
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Center the disc by checking the distance from the edge to the pipe in three places.
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m11 Check with a straight edge rule. Where the rule runs high, you need to hit on that side of the spindle nut to bring it down.
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m12 Check to make sure that the disc spins within 1/16" or so of true, and shrink or stretch and smooth to correct.
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You just need a little crown in the disc so that it is stiff. You can tuck shrink a disc if you do not have a shrinker. See "other albums..." at the top left. This is not an easy project for a first time metal worker.




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